Winged Eyeliner for Hooded & Small Eyes: Techniques and Products
When it comes to makeup there are some things that are difficult to master: false lashes and eyeliner. They can both ruin your entire
day makeup if you get them wrong. Gel liner is much easier to apply (for me) but I prefer the look of liquid liner. Liquid liner has a steeper learning curve, but it’s worth it. It lasts and lasts and looks jet black. Now, the whole eyeliner ordeal becomes even more difficult when you have small and/or hooded eyes. My eyes aren’t severely hooded (there’s still some lid showing) but I have to be careful not to make my line too thick or else it’ll get covered in the fold and transfer to my lid. Eyeliner application is a very personal thing. It takes time and practice to find a technique (as well as products) that works for you. I’m going to share mine with you in case it ends up being just what you need.
When it comes to mastering eyeliner, the tools are as important as the technique. There are a bunch of wonderful eyeliners in the market nowadays. One of my favorite liquid liners is the Bourjois Liner Pinceau because it has a super thin brush that allows for precision and is great for small eyes. A fellow blogger gifted this to me years ago and I’ve kept repurchasing it since.
If I’m going to be using gel eyeliner, my favorite brush to apply it with is the MAC 210 Precise Eyeliner Brush. I searched high and low for the perfect eyeliner brush for small eyes and this earned the “favorite” title. It’s firm and really tiny, smaller than most eyeliner brushes in the market. (I should probably do some sort of comparison post in the future.) Now on to the technique…
Note: My lids are more hooded than they appear in this picture. (Trust me, I feel your struggle fellow hooded-eyed people.) I tend to squint and tilt my head up a bit when I take pictures for this blog so the makeup can be appreciated better. I exaggerated the squinting/tilting for this post so you could see what I was doing more clearly. 🙂
Personally, I like to do my winged eyeliner this way because I find it more flattering for my eye shape. There’s a bunch of ways of doing it, a lot look good (some better than others), and there isn’t just one correct way to do it. Here’s mine…
1. The common rule for winged liner is to trace and imaginary line that extends past your bottom lashline in an upwards direction, towards your brow. However, I think this isn’t the best method for small or hooded eyes because: a) the wing gets hidden or distorted by the crease and b) it visually pulls the eye upwards too unnaturally. So in order to elongate the eye and keep your hooded lids from interfering with the wing, move that imaginary line a few centimeters away from your eye (i.e. the lilac dotted line in the image above).
2. The next steps have an interchangeable order. Some people find it easier to do the entire wing last, some like to set a guideline for it first. I prefer doing the latter. So go ahead and mark where your imaginary lilac dotted line would go with your eyeliner.
3. Line your lid by following the natural shape of your eye. The line should either be uniform in thickness or thinnest at the inner corner.
4. Connect the eyeliner on your lid to the wing guide line, fill it in. Because we shifted our wing a bit away from the eye, you’ll have to fill in a bit of horizontal space near your lashline (more than you would if you had followed the traditional method). This helps visually elongate the eye.
To see a full face picture of the eyeliner in action, go check out this makeup look or browse my makeup looks tag.
And that’s the method I like to use! Is it much different from how you do your eyeliner or is it the same?